Tim
1849 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Fitting rear subframes
It's covered in the Haynes manual, but actually there's nothing particularly difficult about it, just allow plenty of time and penetrating oil!
Posted: Jun 14, 2006 07:40 AM
Mone
164 posts
Joined: 23/10/2006 12:34:32
Location: Lethbridge, Canada
Outdoor Covers? Worth it or not?
I live in a windy area and worry the cover would chafe my paint in the wind over time.
Posted: Nov 18, 2007 06:09 PM
jaimie woodhead
3 posts
Joined: 27/01/2007 09:38:32
Location: bradford United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
reamer
when fitting diff side cover plate bushes i know these need to be remed for the pot joint but anyone know where i can get one, used a friends last time but it has since been lost
Posted: Jul 07, 2009 04:25 PM
Alun Evans
16 posts
Joined: 07/03/2009 01:42:45
Location: llanelli United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Dynamic Crank Balancing
Hi Wondering if anyone can tell me what exactly needs to be fitted to the crank to have it dynamicly balanced, is it just the flyweel at one end and the dynamic damper at the other or do you need to fit the timing chain cog preassure plate , cluth plate and clutch cover ?
Posted: Apr 10, 2010 01:50 PM
N. ROBERTS
7 posts
Joined: 28/10/2004 18:44:36
Location: GOBOWEN United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Vernier duplex gear+simplex chain cover??????
I`ve just found a problem which is preventing me from finishing my build. With the duplex vernier wheels on, (and the countersunk cap screws in the rear plate) the front timing chain cover fouls on the cam wheel before the bolts tighten. I cant find info on this in Vizards bible or on any of the fantastic reference pages of this site. Help please. What do I do??? remove the "collar" from inside the cover?
Posted: May 30, 2006 06:51 PM
Mini in the rain
Does your car have a plastic splash cover over the top and front of the engine? If not, now would be a good time to fit one as theres more rain on the way this weekend!
Posted: Mar 31, 2006 01:36 PM
darryl
10 posts
Joined: 04/06/2005 15:55:23
Location: Ipswich United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
A few mot jobs.
getting there slowly but surely, keep finding more holes that need patching but hopefully it wont be much longer now. should be sprayed by the end of the month to look like the attached picture. The seats are taking longer than expected to re-cover, but i would reccomend it to others (just take your time and measure twice-cut once.) plus you get the colour you want and it's not too expensive, about £60 including some new foam. I'll try to keep you updated as she goes back together....
Posted: May 02, 2006 10:11 PM
Tito
18 posts
Joined: 29/10/2004 00:41:00
Location: Barreiro Portugal
flat battery
Its not dificult to change the oil seal, but can be time consuming. 1)Drain the colant, remove the radiator. 2) Remove the starter engine 3) with a open spanner (or something like it ) Lock the flywheel teth. 4) Undo the big bolt on the centre of the crankshaft ( you might need to remove the engine mount ) 5) remove the pulley, should come out by hand. 6) undo all the bolts around the timing chain cover, and remove the cover. 7) Finaly you can replace the oil seal, and fit everything back together, using a new gasket for the timing chain cover ( I use gasket glue as well ) Hope this help Tito Portugal
Posted: Jan 10, 2005 11:09 PM
T. Perks
57 posts
Joined: 19/11/2006 09:21:16
Location: Wotton under Edge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Engine issues
sounds like youve put the leads back on in the wrong order, firing order 1342, set engine to tdc via mark on front pully and timing cover remove dizzy cap rotor will point to either number 1 or 4 confirm this by removing the rocker cover and for cyl 1 you should have rockers 1+2 with tappet clearance and rockers 7+8 rocking and vice verca for cyl 4. Also points should just open, if not the dizzy maybe in the wrong place aswell .
Posted: Feb 06, 2007 02:23 PM
Changing timing chain in car
I've changed the clutch with the engine still in the car, and changed the water pump, but never tried the timing cover. I can't think of a reason why it can't be done.
Posted: Sep 23, 2014 02:58 PM
Stuck clutch pedal
Have a look under the bonnet and see if you can get some oil onto the pivot and the shaft where the clutch release mechanism sticks out of the cover. You may need to knock the lever forward and back a few times to get it working again.
Posted: Sep 24, 2015 12:54 PM
Batmini
168 posts
Joined: 11/03/2007 10:47:54
Location: Kidderminster United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
timing chain
Yes.
Set No.1 piston to TDC.
Remove radiator (if side mounted) then fan belt, lower pulley and timing gear cover.
Now you can remove timing chain and gears and replace chain.
When refitting cover, put on loosely, fit pulley then tighten cover screws (this helps centre timing seal to pulley and reduce likelyhood of leaks.
Posted: Nov 13, 2011 11:16 AM
aaron thompson
1 posts
Joined: 09/10/2011 17:46:48
Location: Braintree United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Oil blow out and lack or power
Hi everyone, 1st time on here so here goes, took mini out to a meet last night, all good, on way home running at 70 mph on open road and then started to have lack of power like fuel was running out, slowed down to 30/5 and cleared it, but noticed lack of poet over 3k revs. Got it home at low speed as 1 min away, popped bonet and oil is all over pully fan thermostat underside of car, oil looked ok in rocker cover. I do reg checks on oil valves timing mixture dash pot etc..... Don't know if it's oil seal or head gasket??? How do I start? Many thanks aaron
Posted: Sep 06, 2012 06:53 AM
Barry Brown
511 posts
Joined: 23/06/2008 12:08:31
Location: New Barn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Not starting & Misfiring through throttle body - SPI
bulb test for static timing.
open the timing plate cover to see the timing marks on the flywheel or using the tag on the timing chain cover. with the engine off put the car in gear and bring the timing mark to the correct alignment as specified in the handbook. select hanbrake & neutral again. now slacken off the distributor pinch bolt so it lightly grips the housing. remove the coil lead. connect a spare indicator bulb between the black/white LT ignition cable and the lead for the condenser. Now turn the ignition on but don't crank it over. If the timing is correct the bulb will light up. If it isn't then rotate the dizzie body until it does. This is static timing and gives you a rough 'starting position' when rebuilding the engine and ignition. It's also good if you forget to do the dizzie bolt up and knock it out of alignment (whoops)
You can then use the strobe light to set the timing more accurately as per normal tuning.
Posted: Mar 11, 2011 02:59 PM
Crankcase breather - do I need one?
Ideally you need both. The gases 'leaking by' will predominantly be in the crankcase during the compression and power strokes as the valves are closed. This means the pressure will be acting on the gearbox-to-block gasket and the oil seals of the primary bearing, timing chain cover and final driveshafts. The only way for it to escape is by blowing out one of these naturally weak points or to vent past the cam followers and into the rocker cover. It may even affect the lubrication of those cam followers creating pockets of gas instead of oil down the sidewalls. If you can, try to fit a crankcase breather and join it with a t-piece to the rocker cover outlet so that the fumes are burnt in the system rather than vented to the atmosphere direct. (taking care not to set the pipework on fire with the exhaust manifold....)
Posted: Mar 26, 2010 05:50 PM
1.7:1 rockers vs 1.5:1
as far as i know there is only 1 set of 1.7 rockers made at the mo and they use alloy rocker posts, the trouble is the posts expand at a different rate to the steel ones and tend to let the head gasket move around and blow i had a seton an engine that i dyno'd we just couldnt get them to clamp nice so i swapped them for a set of 1.5 steel posts loosing some of the ratio in the procces, as for power you really need a cam developed for use with this ratio as as is you wont see any difference in power as an example on a 1293 rally engine with a 300 deg cam we saw 105bhp with the 1.7 rackers and 88lbft of torque, when swapped to 1.5 we then had 108bhp and 95lbft of torque at around the same revs, as for guide wear you shouldnt much more espesially as they are roller tip type. So imho got for 1.5's every time as they are easyer to use and more readilly available. But it also depends on your cam spec; as my current 1293 puts out 92bhp @6700 but using std pressed steel rockers, i actually lost 4 bhp and 5lbft when i fitted the 1.5's and they touched the rocker cover!
Posted: Feb 13, 2007 05:12 PM
Tapping
check the rocker bushes on the rockers, with engine running it'll make a mess but you'll know: run engine and use timing light strobe it'll slow the action down and youll see any duff bushes but remember the strobe will slow every thing down so keep your fingers clear!, Also check to make sure the under side of the rocker is not touching the valve cap this will make this noise but eventually youll drop a valve and that'll be a disaster. The last will only occour if the head has had a fair bit off the upper rocker cover surface and the head face, and the head is the latter 12G940. Sorry just thought of another obviuos thing are the rocker adjuster screws hitting the rocker cover quite a common one this.
Posted: Jan 30, 2007 06:55 PM
r. mcdowell
2 posts
Joined: 07/08/2006 18:51:27
Location: belfast United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
My total rebuild
well, ive got a little more done to the mini over the last few weeks.i got the clutch and flywheel fitted so was able to torque up the cam and crank pulleys and fit the timing belt cover. I also got my new minispares rocker cover and after a bit of modifing got it to fit past the extra stud at the thermostat end.(nothing has been straight forward on this build) I also got new 4 pot calipers and vented grooved discs with all braided pipework from ebay. i fitted these yesterday...look good on the car. i trial fitted my wheels to see how the curve of the non-genuine arches would be...these need a bit of work as they are not a perfect fit. Also stripped more from the car including all the door parts,dash clocks and top dash section. i have included a couple of photos of the progress..hope you like them. i will continue to post and am enjoying reading other peoples similar stories of rebuilding their mini's. Bye for now.
Posted: Oct 27, 2006 02:24 PM
knutspeed
17 posts
Joined: 13/09/2004 22:14:01
Location: Sarpsborg Norway
noise in TPI - can any TPI driver do me a tiny favour?
Thanks Chris! I've found out that the timing gears cover needs a slight mod if duplex gears are fitted to an A+. The previous owner has swapped them to duplex, and just maybe the mod hasn't been done. Will find out!
Posted: Jul 06, 2006 08:49 AM
John
163 posts
Joined: 09/09/2004 09:32:06
Location: DK-2000 Frederiksberg Denmark
re
Ah, but werent there different S engines? Some with thick flanges, others thin? Some with tappet covers, some without? Shamefully, Ive been into the mini thing for several years now, and never took the time to remember these things (sigh). :-(
Posted: Dec 07, 2004 10:24 PM